Japan Day 1: The Climb to Mt. Fuji Summit

Bullet-climbing. That’s something i have just learned recently – it means climbing up the mountain straight up  and climbing down almost immediately with little to no rest in between. In other words climbing overnight without sleep. I guess that would be fine if it were a typical mountain, but this is the highest peak in Japan I'm talking about. It’s not the highest in Asia but it is still quite high and the climb is not something to underestimate, plus the intended climb was to be done at a usually cold night. Still, i decided to bullet-climb my way for the summit.

My intention was to start early in the evening, climb through the night and have enough time and rest at the summit for the sunrise then hurry back down the next morning. That sounded easy and simple enough.

The experience though,  is something quite different, for the most difficult and most interesting parts happen in between those activities. This is a story i just have to tell.

After a few hours with my initial ‘adventure’ at the capsule hotel, i immediately went to Keio Bus Terminal in Shinjuku to get a direct bus to Mt. Fuji Fifth Station. The 5th station is actually half-way through Mt. Fuji peak. There are up to nine stations before the actual summit – except for the 5th station these are small lodges that offer some form of accommodation but most importantly coffee, cup of ramen and a bit of warmth for those climbing up. The fifth station is actually a big area where hikers start off. Its got several restaurants and shops that sell everything from souvenirs to hiking gears. There are also police station and bus stops, lodges and horseback riding. Most of them though, are closed at night.

Back to the bus station at Shinjuku. It turns out, that even with almost 2 months of planning and preparation – i failed to reserve a bus ticket which was necessary to catch a ride for the direct bus to 5th station. There were no more available seat at that time. Thankfully, the really nice staff at the station suggested to take another route, albeit taking me to the station at a later time.

I had to take it – i would move mountains just to do this (pun intended).

So, after leaving a few of my things at a coin locker in Shinjuku station I took a Keio bus to Kawaguchiko station. That’s one of the train stations close to the foot of Mt. Fuji. It was a 2-hour ride with a few brief stops along the way. On the way i saw the Fujikyu Highland theme park – with its massive and really scary rollercoaster ride.

I reached Kawaguchiko station around 7PM – aiming for the last bus bound for the fifth station. With that i had some free time for a few more preparations and to check the place around. Although it was already late at night, i can see that it was a really nice place with a country-like theme for the whole station and the restaurants and shops around it. A few minutes of walking from the station i found a 7-11 where i got a few things for my climb (some water, a few energy bars, a jelly-drink, an onigiri and a rain coat). Then i was back at the station waiting for the last bus up.

The bus took about an hour along slowly climbing roads that are often heavily surrounded by trees and on paths that are often dark but not at all scary. When we reached the 5th station, it was already around 10PM and i had no idea where to go to and what to do, or who to ask for help.

The moment I stepped out of the bus, the cold came at me. So, i immediately put on a jacket and tried to see what the few remaining people there were doing. Since I could only find one open establishment there, a hiking gear and souvenir shop – i just went in. I got another litre of water and a walking stick intended for support and as a souvenir. I’ve read that this walking stick is actually necessary when going down – I’m so glad i followed that advise! As a souvenir it’s also cool since you can have the stick stamped at every station you reach – the last one coming from the summit.

The shop also had vending machines, coin lockers and paid toilets. I didn’t actually use any of them but it was nice that they were quite available in the middle of the night. I got out of the shop thinking i was all ready but then I realized that my jacket would simply not be able to stand against this much chill from the strong wind so it was time to switch to a winter jacket, wore thick gloves and a second set of thick socks. Some minutes later i found the starting point for the trail. A few stretches here and there and i was quite ready.

I honestly wanted to find someone to tag along with but was too shy to ask. So, with my all my gears, a hiking bag on my back, a walking stick with two clicking bells, a bright headlamp and an once of courage – i started off with another adventure in Japan – my intended climb of Mt. Fuji.

A few minutes of walking along a well-laid off road – and i thought this wasn’t so bad. Apart from the darkness it was actually quite easy! I even stopped a few times to take a picture of the beautiful city below with my Sony Nex-C3 (yes, i’m bragging about this camera that i got with great discount in Singapore). It took a surprisingly really bright and clear pic of the night scene. I moved along the path until i reached a fork indicating another way down and the START of the Yoshida trail.

What?! You mean, i haven’t started yet?

Anyway, i started my hike once more – for real this time. Only a few meters on and the trail just got steeper and steeper. It started to get interesting as the narrow paved road turned into just a simple trail surrounded by trees. With only a headlamp as the prime source of light and you have yourself an instant episode in Discovery (or maybe SyFy) channel.

About an hour of hiking up, the trees started to fade away, the night sky to completely cover the horizon and the chilly winds to pick up. Still, inside my winter jacket I felt quite warm and started to sweat but when i tried to open it up the chill was too much to bear. Anyway, it was just a slight discomfort so i managed to endure it.

At this time i was thankful that all my preparations to physically perk me up, two months before this trip was paying off. Little did i know that the climb would take it’s toll a few hours later.

There were several times when i was alone on the trail, with no one behind nor in front of me. It felt scary but at the same time exhilarating and liberating. Plus the view of the night sky and the city below was just something to behold – enough to make me forget (at times) how tired, sleepy and scared i was.

The climb to the 6th station and the 7th went just fine with no incident nor trouble. However, from the 7th station – the story started to take a different turn. The wind was just harsher: much colder and waaay too strong.

I took a few minutes of rest on every station, worried that my body might not have enough time to acclimate to the height – but i never really had trouble. So, i took at most 10 minute rests. Besides, the only rest you get at the stations were seats at the edge of the lodge scaffolding. The cold was always wind blowing really hard against you – almost trying to either throw you off the edge or blast dust across your face. That, or just it will just kill you with the chill. So i didn’t really bother stopping long as i would start to feel the cold more if i stopped. Despite everything else, I kept going – rather, energy bars kept me going.

From the 8th station, through the 9th until near the summit – i was practically wall-climbing on some areas. It was a really scary experience not only because of the fear of falling from such height but also because of the darkness that practically envelops you from all direction, with the strong cold wind giving you more than just a physical chill. The only respite from all this is the occasional company that i encounter every now and then. I chance to have a chat with an Austrian and his friends but after a few minutes of rest at the station i decided to go on ahead. Staying still really made the chill harder to handle. My body had to keep moving to generate heat and burn as much oxygen and carbo as it can.

At this height, there were times when i could see no other hikers. It was just me clinging on the face of the mountain, only seeing steep rocks a few feet in front of me where my headlamp manages to shine some light on.

Thankfully, a few meters to the summit i joined with the rest of the crowd. It wasn’t as much people as i have expected it to be, though. I thought (and hoped) there would be more going up at this hour. The bulk of them were actually from group tours who stayed for a few hours in one of the lodges to start hiking up again at around 2AM.

I made my way up quickly, politely bowing or excusing myself whenever i need to over take. (yes, bowing is a habit i learned to adopt over years of working in a Japanese company). Along the way, i reached the Torii gate, stuck a 100-yen in one of the slits of the wood and made a wish.

At one of the steepest climbs, a queue started to form up. That’s when that i realized the summit was really close. It didn’t rain the whole night but at this point we were just surrounded by clouds. I tried to look above, below and around me and there was little to see. I could not even see the sky, we were literally engulfed in the cloud. It would have been really awesome had it been in daylight – but this was 3AM in the morning. All you see around you was just a black mist that no amount of artificial light can pierce. Visibility was reduced to a few feet around you. Everything else in this big wide world seem to have disappeared. Fortunately, i didn’t feel quite alone since a few feet from me i could see the person in front and behind me trying to reach the same goal.

After a few more minutes of hiking, mixed with some brief waiting – i was finally there, at the summit of Mt. Fuji!!

Actually, i didn’t know it was already the summit. HAHA.

I had to ask and confirm first that it was really the summit. The steep climb seemed to never end. I kept telling myself, just a few more. So, when it ended i was STILL telling myself, just a few more. So anti-climactic. Lol.

In the dark of 4AM, the summit looks just like one of the stations – except well, darker because of the mists/clouds. It was also absurdly colder. Since I'm actually one of the faster hikers, there wasn’t really much of a crowd yet when i reached the summit.

Feeling cold and tired, i took a seat on one of the benches which i assumed was for viewing the sunrise. It was still a good hour before the sunrise so i wanted to rest a bit. There was both moisture and dust in the cold air and the wind was blowing just as strong – and at 4AM there was little warmth. It is at this point that i could not feel my feet anymore from the cold, and i was shaking profusely – i simply got scared. Thankfully, there were 2 shops that were already open at that time. I got in and ordered the single most expensive, most delicious Nissin Cup Noodles i have ever had in my life!!

I warmed up a bit, replaced my slightly wet socks and just enjoyed the noodles. Then we started to hear a commotion from the outside – the sun was rising! I ran leaving my unfinished cup noodles.

We didn’t actually see the sun rise because of the clouds – at least not the way i imagined it to be. The sun showed itself for brief moments then hid again behind the clouds. The day has already welcomed the light though and everything was bright albeit still cold.

I had another coffee inside the shop to keep me warm and perk me up for the trail down. There’s a small shrine at the summit where i had the last stamp on my walking stick. From the other shop, i got a keychain where they engraved the date of reaching the summit and my name on it!

Cool! Plus i enjoyed the chat with the guy doing the engraving – it was a nice way to practice my Nihongo.

So, after 7-straight hours of climbing i was prepared again, for the the hike down – or so, i thought.

There’s a different trail going down. This one had flattened ground made of loose gravel and crimson soil. And, it was ridiculously steep!

From the summit it looked like the surface of Mars. The zigzag pathways going down is really steep and scary. Me, being quite afraid of heights had the instinct of sticking to and clinging at the face of the mountain avoiding the unfenced edge of the trail. I spent a lot of effort just staying put, prevent myself from falling head-first in front or falling over the edge, while the still-chilly wind was seemed bent on pushing me over.

A few hundred meters of doing that and i just begun to feel to tired and careless. So, at some point i forgot the fear and just concentrated on preventing my knees from buckling. The walking stick was really, (and i cannot say this more) really helpful. It was my support when my knees felt like they were giving up. Two more hours of walking downwards and i just had to stop and take a rest every few meters. It was actually nice to rest at every bend of the trail, apart from the needed rest – that’s also a time to appreciate the awesome view of the landscape below. Even though it was still cold because of the wind, the sun was shining quite brightly – and every thing below was clear and breath-taking.

If i could stay there longer to enjoy the view i would have.. but i have a lunch to catch up, with a Japanese friend in Shinjuku which was about 2 hours ride from the 5th station. I had to hurry.

After endless walking, with my knees just screaming to give up i reached the ‘head of the Yoshida trail’ – and had to ask another hiker to take my picture. The trail gave way to paved levelled road and my legs just thanked me.

Quite a number of people were already starting with their day-hike. I’m just glad it was over for me.

When i reached the 5th station, i had to stop and look around – and of course, take a picture. The place looked really different and more awesome during the day. The sights was again beautiful, but was made more enticing because of the surrounding cottages, trees, the bright sky and just the sheer number of people there. It was awesome.

I got a ticket bound directly to Shinjuku station leaving at 10:30AM. Plenty of time to meet up with Shohei-kun for a late lunch.

At this time unfortunately, i noticed that i have lost my wallet containing all my credit-cards, my Singapore IC and a few Yen. That’s another part of this story though (it’s a sad one, but with a happy ending)! Day 1 has come to a close, the next chapter is coming right up.

Climbing Mt. Fuji was actually the main goal of this solo trip. It’s a sort of celebration because this year is the 10th year since i first came to Japan.

I wanted to do something epic – and that’s what i have accomplished!

I climbed Mt. Fuji!!

link to post 1: Of Bullet-climbing, Bullet Trains and Everything in Between